After a 14 1/2 hour flight (shorter and more comfortable than I expected...thanks Xanax!), I arrived in Beijing Thursday afternoon where Drew met me at the airport with a hired driver and a huge smile. From there, we weaved through thick traffic, making our way to the hotel where Drew had been staying for the last month -- a lovely place on teh dge of the Olympic village, just down the street from the Bird's Nest and a cheap taxi ride from all the sights one might want to see while in the city.
On Friday, I felt like Scarlett Johanssen in Lost in Translation as I meandered around Beijing on my own while Drew worked. I started the morning with a traditional Chinese -- and dirt cheap -- reflexolgy foot rub and then made by way via taxi to a Beihai, a historic park, where I witnessed spontaneous singing and dancing in a number of pagodas situated along the small lake. I hiked up various pathways into sacred temples lined with red lanterns and saw one old man practicing caligraphy on the street with a 5-foot brush he dipped into a large bucket of water after every few strokes.
Something I noticed on that first dat is how no one wears seatbelts in Beijing, and in fact, most of the taxis don't even have them -- something I'm sure my mother will be thrilled to learn. And of the hunderds and hundreds of people on bikes I saw, only one person wore a helmet and I'd bet my fist born she was a foreigner. It's also not at all uncommon to see small children sitting precariously on the back of bikes or even on the handles bars as their parents weave in and out of the crazy ass Beijing traffic.
You guys, I went to the Olympics! I wasn't sure if we'd be able to score tickets, but Drew worked his magic and landed us some track & field tickets on Friday night. It was my second Olympics since I got to see lots of events when my family lived in Seoul during the '88 summer games. This time was no less exciting and even fighting major jetlag, I couldn't help but get caught up in the collective frenzy inside the Bird's Nest as we watched the races and long jumps and final event of the Decathalon. The downside was that the stadium smelled like a combination of Bubble Yum and farts. Don't ask me why....it just did.
We weren't able to get tickets for the closing ceremony, but a group of us ate dinner in a private room in our hotel restaurant with floor to ceiling windows that overlooked the stadium. We were joined by a group of Drew's colleagues from NBC whom he'd been working with for the last month and that last meal together was punctuated with fireworks from the ceremony down the street. When our bill came and was an astonishing $70 per person (practically unheard of in China), we rationalized that the experience was worth it. Also, it didn't smell like Bubble Yum and farts in there, so that was good.
Yesterday, we left Beijing for a week and a half of traveling around. We'll return to Beijing next Monday for a few days before heading home to New York, but first we're going to experience more rural China. And wow, it's RURAL!! We arrived yesterday afternoon in Pingyao -- an ancient walled city that left both Drew and me feeling something I haven't felt since my trip to rural Russia nearly 15 years ago -- extreme culture shock that almost threw us both into a bit of a panic attack after checking into our hotel last night and braving a restaurant that had "cat's ear noodle soup" on the menu (we discovered later that the noodles are just in the shape on cat's ears...). I'm still processing just how foreign this place is (I'm struggling even finding the right words for description....), but after a fascinating walk through the dusty cobbled streets this morning where we saw a group of people repairing an ancient wall with mud and straw (and lots of spit), then being blessed by a monk in a small Toaist temple, and then stumbling upon this tourist cafe with free internet and amazing coffee, I feel the edge of culture shock softening just a tiny bit. The waitstaff here even speaks some broken English and there's a bookshelf full of travel books and novels in English. I'm not sure whether to feel relieved in this find, or a little ashamed I don't know I would have lasted the entire day without it. They even have imported beers for about 3 bucks. It's only 11 AM here, but you guys, it's 11 PM in New York! Gambei!


